During excavations in Nerevskij End, remnants of shoemakers’ workshops and beamhouses were found. There were also finds of leather shoes that date back to the 11th-16th centuries.
The process of preparing leather for shoemaking began by soaking the hide. The hide was then cleared of any flesh that was left and subcutaneous tissue using iron adzes.
Russian shoemaking traditions
Shoemakers began to use different kinds of baste around the 12th century. Tree bark was stripped (birch, linden, oak, or elm) and then incorporated into the bast, and then stored for some time. Then, it was split into strips which were used to weave the lapti. The strips could be woven in a straight or diagonal pattern and the shoes could be decorated with embroidering or stamping.
Lapti were the main footwear of common people. The comfort, simplicity and affordability of the shoes led to their popularity. They were popular up to the time of the Civil War in Russia. After that they were mass made to replace them.
Porshni shoes were low-heeled and were in fashion during the 16th-17th century. This type of shoe was discovered only in the urban excavated layers. They were also made out of rawhide from ox, however they had a felt upper and a leather sole.
The leather shoe industry in Russia
During the 10th-11th centuries, Novgorod tanners created rawhide [Rus. syromiatnaia, syromjatnaja], that was not tanned, but it was kneaded, then was soaked in fat. Using it, leatherworkers made belts, tackle, and a basic form of footwear called “bog shoes” [Rus. porshni]. Judging by the symmetrical examples of these shoes that were found in excavations (for both the right and left foot), the shoemakers shaped the material on a special last.
The earliest bogs featured designs stamped on the sides that resembled the style of pouches. kosheliok, koshelek). It was a popular method to embellish leather. Later, the patterns were made with silk or wool thread.
Novgorod is where the earliest leather shoes preserved in Russia were discovered. They were different from one another: some were low, and reached the ankle; others had a collar around the ankles like boots. A number of pairs of these shoes were owned by aristocrats and boysars which were depicted on sculptures.
Lapti were a very popular type of footwear for the peasant population of the middle ages of Russia. Old, ragged lapti used to be placed on fences or inside houses to keep out evil spirits that an unknown guest could bring. Old lapti can also be utilized to move the domovoi, or house spirit, from one residence to another in the course of a move.
The evolution of Russian leather shoes
The evidence from archaeology suggests that Novgorod shoemakers made shoes for all kinds of people such as peasants and artisans. They also created footwear for wealthy boys and princes, as depicted on sculptures. The craft of shoemakers grew significantly between the 11th and 12th centuries. The simpler embroidery and carving of earlier shoes were replaced by complex openwork compositions.
The 13th century witnessed the introduction of soft shoes (Rus. porshni]. Mulgati Shoes with flat soles were discovered in the burial mounds of Vjatichi. The upper, sole heel quarter and bootleg of these shoes are constructed of a more flexible and elastic leather than the sole. Between these two halves of the shoe, a lining (podnariad or podnarjad] was sewn.
The Russian leather (lapti) used in these shoes is a distinctive characteristic. The leather was made from animal hides, tanned with barks from oak, birch as well as linden and other trees. This leather had a long lifespan, an unforgettable smell, and a distinctive circular surface.
The 17th and 16th centuries saw the introduction of new types of footwear in Europe. In the 19th century, these boots were able to become the primary winter footwear for Russian peasants. These boots are still worn in traditional Russian clothing and represent Russian culture. They are constructed of top natural leather that has an asymmetrical final that corresponds to the feet’s posture and leaves space for the toes.
Russian brands of leather shoes
The production of leather shoes in Russia makes up more than 10% of the industry for footwear. It is one of the largest industrial sectors that is constantly developing due to the rising demand for premium leather shoes. To satisfy this increasing demand, a number of companies have emerged in the field of leather shoe production in Russia. This includes the Vakhrushi-Litobuv as well as Technoavia companies, which are both based in Yoshkar-Ola.
Vakhrushi-Litobuv is a leading Russian supplier of safety footwear made from leather. It provides its products to Mosvodokanal>>> Management Company LLC and North-West>> PJSC as well as Bashkiravtodor>>> JSC. The company also sells a wide range of leather casual shoes.
Technoavia is a full-cycle footwear manufacturing company which has been in operation since 1992. Its plant in Yoshkar-Ola is home to four injection molding machines Desma, which allow it to make footwear using PU/PU and PU/TPU soles. Technoavia also produces the only safe boot made of leather that is insulated in the world.
The company was the first to use “Russian Leather” which is a type of leather that is constructed from the skins of Southern German cows and sealed by oil and wax. The leather is a rich deep, deep color that ranges from deep claret to sienna. It has a distinct sweet smell. The leather is extremely resilient and resistant to stains.